Rahr

Posted on Wed, Jan. 05, 2005

Fort Worth's new Rahr Blonde craft beer is available only on draft until November, when longnecks will begin coming off the bottling line.

Rahr Blonde is a rare find: A world-class local brew

By Barry Shlachter
Star-Telegram Staff Writer

Just days after Rahr &p Sons Brewing Co. had delivered its first keg to Flying Saucer Draught Emporium, I got a call from a local beer lover wanting to relay a personal discovery.

He had sampled a new lager, one made in Cowtown and called Rahr Blonde. It had knocked his socks off. Had I tried it?

I knew by the call that Fritz Rahr, founder of Fort Worth's brand-new microbrewery, had hit a home run.

It's important for a community our size to have a craft brewer of which it can be proud. Sometimes the output of a town's brewpub or microbrewery is undistinguished, but misplaced pride and boosterism can cloud local judgment. That's when visitors who hear about how good the local brew is are left either confused or wanting to swear off everything but mainstream lagers.

Luckily for this startup and for Fort Worth, however, Rahr's German-style helles lager -- a cousin of the Czech pilsener -- isn't likely to turn off any first-time imbibers of craft beer. When a drinking companion and I tried a pint of Rahr Blonde at the Flying Saucer, it was immediately clear that the new microbrewery in town had produced a world-class beer.

Rahr Blonde, available only in draft until November, when a bottling line is due to start up, pours a warm golden hue with a white foamy head. The aroma is light, but the flavor is full, delicious and satisfying. This is easily what the British call a "session" beer, meaning it can be sipped and enjoyed in multiple quantities throughout an evening. Mouth feel was clean -- just a bit crisp without being at all bitter.

For comparison, we sampled Munich's Spaten Premium, which was much paler, lightly carbonated, with a far less pronounced flavor and an aftertaste that was almost too sweet. Rahr Blonde won both of our votes hands down.

With domestic Rahr two-row malt and imported Tettnanger and Hallertauer noble hops, the Fort Worth microbrewery has produced a beer on a par with -- or even better than -- many superb Munich-style lagers on the market.

So why pay a premium for an import that has made a lengthy voyage when a very worthy lager is being brewed just south of downtown?

IN THE KNOW (About the brewery)

The Rahr & Sons Brewery, 701 Galveston Ave. at Leuda, a block west of South Main just south of downtown, does not have a brewpub but offers free public tours and tastings (up to 26 ounces) from 1 to 3 p.m. every Saturday. For information, call (817) 810-9266.

Brewing capacity: 10,000 to 12,000 barrels annually, which compares with the 7 million barrels (217 million gallons) produced annually at Miller's Fort Worth plant.

The beer:

Rahr Blonde, a German-style helles lager, is 4.7 percent alcohol by volume. It will be available in longnecks in November; until then, it is offered on tap at Flying Saucer in downtown Fort Worth and Addison, White Elephant Beer Garden in the Stockyards, Lonnegan's in Hurst, Torch and Crickets in Lubbock. It's expected to be sold soon at Lonegan's at Eagle Mountain Lake and at Fox & Hound, Zoe's and Zolon downtown.

Rahr Red, a hybrid brew akin to Vienna and Oktoberfest Marzen lagers, but with more body. Also 4.7 percent alcohol. Available on tap at most of the above locations.

Ugly Pug, a German schwarzbier, or black lager. Planned for late fall or early winter.

Bucking Bock, a seasonal Maibock planned for spring 2005.

Hoppin' Horned Frog, an India pale ale, or IPA, inspired by TCU's mascot and planned for fall 2005.

Barry Shlachter, (817) 390-7718 bshlachter@star-telegram.com